Modified 2018-11-07 by tanij
Gianmarco Bernasconi, Jacopo Tani
The following was marked as "special-par-assigned".
Gianmarco Bernasconi, Jacopo Tani
File book/opmanual_duckiebot/atoms_17_operation_manual_duckiebot/1_0_17_assembling_duckiebot_DB18.md.
File book/opmanual_duckiebot/atoms_17_operation_manual_duckiebot/1_0_17_assembling_duckiebot_DB18.md
in repo duckietown/docs-opmanual_duckiebot branch master commit 3f931d72
last modified by tanij on 2018-11-07 18:13:58
create_notes_from_elements
in module mcdp_docs.task_markers
.This page is for the DB18
configuration used in classes in 2018. For last year’s instructions see the DB17
Duckiebot operation manual.
Duckiebot DB18
parts. The acquisition process is explained in Unit B-3 - Duckiebot Configurations.
A microSD card with the Duckiebot image already on it. This procedure is explained here.
Time: about 1-1.5 hours (45 minutes for an experienced Duckiebot builder).
An assembled Duckiebot in configuration DB18
.
The FAQ section at the bottom of this page may already answer some of you comments, questions or doubts.
There are 16 parts in this procedure. Most parts build upon previous steps, so make sure to follow them in the following order:
Modified 2018-11-07 by tanij
All the pieces in your Duckiebox are shown in Figure 4.2. Note that the battery and camera calibration pattern are not shown in the picture.
Moreover, you might have slightly different components than those shown. For example, different USB power cables, or slightly different sets of screws, or a camera mount or backplate of a different color, and so on. Do not worry, these instructions can be followed anyway.
Some of the components in your Duckiebox will not be used at this stage, e.g., the traffic signs and stands. Keep these aside, they will come in handy in other parts of the book.
Finally, you should have several spares, especially for the mechanical bits (nuts and screws). These are included just in case you drop a few and can’t find them anymore (especially the tiny nylon ones like to hide in the cracks!).
Modified 2018-09-04 by Gianmarco Bernasconi
Unbox all of your components, and lay them out on a flat surface. Ensure that you have well lit, uncluttered space to work on.
Although not necessary, you might find useful getting a small (M2.5) wrench to ease some of the passages.
Take the rear bumper bracers and the back bumper. The back bumper will be mounted in the last steps as a press fit to the rear bumper bracers. Try to fit the bracers into the holes of the back bumper.
Some bumper bracers have a plastic protective film which is a residue of the manufacturing process. If you struggle in the press fitting, peel off the plastic cover from one side of the bracer. If this does not help, peel off the plastic cover from both sides.
Peel the plastic cover from all the chassis parts (except the bumper bracers) on both sides.
Note that a few among all of your metal screws are special. They are “countersunk” screws. Keep these aside. They will be needed in Part 15: Back bumper assembly.
Every time you read M3x8 screw, a M3x10 will do the same trick. You can exchange them at will.
Do not exchange metal and nylon screws though. The latter are not electrically conductive and are passive protections to potential short circuits that can damage your Duckiebot beyond repair. This is especially true for Part 4: Assemble Onmi-directional wheel and bottom chassis; make sure you use the correct nylon screws at that step.
Remember that instructions are your friend! At least at this stage, try to follow them precisely.
If regardless of this foreword you still choose to try and figure it out yourself, it’s ok, but for the love of what is precious, do not plug the battery in until you have performed a visual inspection Subsection 4.16.1 - Step 1: Visual inspection.
Modified 2018-09-13 by tanij
From the Duckiebox package take the following components:
Figure 4.6 shows the components needed to complete this part of the tutorial.
Modified 2018-11-07 by tanij
Pass two of the motor holders through the openings in the bottom plate of the chassis as shown in Figure 4.8. If you have troubles fitting the holders, it is probably because you have not removed the protective plastic film.
Modified 2018-11-07 by tanij
Put one motor between the holders as shown in Figure 4.10.
Orient the motors so that their wires are inwards (i.e., towards the center of the plate).
Use your screwdriver.
Modified 2018-11-07 by tanij
Use 2 M3x30 screws and 2 M3 nuts to secure the motor to the motor holders. Pass the screws through the holes from the outside inwards, then tighten the screws to secure the holders to the bottom plate of the chassis as shown in Figure 4.12.
tighten the motors firmly, as a wobbly motor might cause troubles later on.
Modified 2018-11-07 by tanij
Repeat for the opposite side and check that the outcome is the same as in Figure 4.14.
Modified 2018-11-07 by tanij
Tilt your bottom plate and pass the cables of the motors through the central hole. Keep the cables coming from each motor separated (Figure 4.16).
Modified 2018-11-07 by tanij
The Duckiebot is driven by controlling the wheels attached to the DC motors. Still, it requires a passive support on the back. In this configuration an omni-directional wheel is attached to the bottom plate of the chassis to provide such support.
From the Duckiebox package take the following components:
Figure 4.18 shows the components needed to complete this part of the tutorial.
Secure the M3x25 spacers to the omni-directional wheel using 2 M3 screws (M6 to M10 will work, choose the shortest you have in your pack) as shown in Figure 4.20.
Modified 2018-10-30 by Gianmarco Bernasconi
From the previously prepared pieces take the following components:
From the Duckiebot kit take the following components:
Use the nylon screws in this step, to avoid short-circuits later on.
Figure 4.22 shows the components needed to complete this part of the tutorial.
Pass the screws through the designated holes from the top, as shown in Figure 4.24
In the bottom part, secure the omni-directional wheel using the screws.
Modified 2018-11-07 by tanij
Figure 4.26 shows how the omni-directional wheel should be attached to the plate.
Modified 2018-11-07 by tanij
From the previously prepared pieces take the following components:
From the Duckiebot kit take the following components:
Figure 4.28 shows the components needed to complete this part of the tutorial.
Insert two M3x8 screws in the designated holes and place the rear bumper on them, they should align as in Figure 4.30. A little forcing might be necessary.
Fasten the bottom rear bumper bracer using the M3x25 standoffs (shorter ones), then use the M3x30 standoffs (longer ones) for the front of the Duckiebot. The result should look like Figure 4.32.
Modified 2018-11-07 by tanij
From the previously prepared pieces take the following components:
From the Duckiebot kit take the following components:
Figure 4.34 shows the components needed to complete this part of the tutorial.
Insert one wheel on each motor, as in Figure 4.36. Mind that there is a particular orientation at which the wheel will fit. Don’t force them too much!
Figure 4.38 shows how the assembly should look like after mounting the wheels.
Modified 2018-11-07 by tanij
From the Duckiebot kit take the following components:
You probably have two heat sinks, make sure you use the bigger one in this step. The smaller one can be used at discretion (e.g., apply it on the USB port you will later use for the external 32GB USB dongle).
Figure 4.40 shows the components needed to complete the following steps.
Peel the cover from the bottom of the heat sink and place it on the Raspberry Pi microchip, as shown in Figure 4.42
Locate the camera cable plug (see Figure 4.44 for reference) in the Raspberry Pi and lift the black “wings” to open it.
Make sure that the connectors of the camera cable match the ones in the Raspberry Pi (Figure 4.46), then plug in the cable and push down the black wings to fasten the connection, making sure it “clicks”.
Please be aware that different camera cables have the text on different sides and with different orientation, do not use it as a landmark.
Find the SD card holder on the Raspberry Pi (on the bottom of it). Then insert the micro SD card as in Figure 4.48. Note that SD cards might vary in appearance, the figure is just for reference.
Figure 4.50 shows how the Raspberry Pi should look like now.
Modified 2018-11-07 by tanij
From the previously prepared pieces take the following components:
From the Duckiebot kit take the following components:
Figure 4.52 shows the components needed to complete this part of the tutorial.
have a close look at the GPIO pins of the Hut (top board). None of the pins should touch each other.
If for any reason (maybe they got bent during transportation) the pins are not straight, straighten them up. You can do so with your hands or helping yourself with a screwdriver or pencil, and by applying some gentle pressure.
It is more convenient to not separate the jumper cables, but leave them in two sets of three.
Place the spacers on the bottom part of the Duckiebot hut, as in Figure 4.54
From the top of the Duckiebot Hut, secure using the M2.5 nylon nuts.
Place the Raspberry Pi as in Figure 4.56, passing the camera cable through the slit in the Duckiebot Hut. Then plug in the Hut, by making sure that the Raspberry Pi GPIO pins fit into the Hut connector.
Repetita iuvant: visually inspect the Hut’s GPIO pins and make sure they do not touch each other (i.e., are straight).
Take one of the two sets of F/F jumper cables, and attach it to the Duckietown Hut as shown in Figure 4.58. It is important to use the pins named: “5Vusb, ADR LED and GND”, do not use the pin labelled “5Vraspi”. Take note of which color have you connected to each pin.
Finally, attach the two USB cable to the power plugs, as in Figure 4.60. Note that the color of the USB cables might vary, so don’t worry if yours are not exactly as those shown in the picture below. The two USB cables could also be uncomfortably short. If your powerbank/battery comes with longer cables you might want to use them instead.
Figure 4.62 shows how the Raspberry Pi 3 should look like at this point.
Modified 2018-09-13 by tanij
From the Duckiebox package take the following components:
Figure 4.64 shows the components needed to complete this part of the tutorial.
Place the camera mount over the top place as in Figure 4.66
Insert the M3x10 screws from the opposite side of the camera mount (see Figure 4.68)
Fasten using M3 nuts (Figure 4.70)). Make sure that the camera is facing forward direction as perfectly as possible.
Modified 2018-09-19 by Aleksandar Petrov
From the previously prepared pieces take the following components:
From the Duckiebot kit take the following components:
By this moment you probably have both M2.5 and M3 Nylon screws. Make sure you use the M2.5 ones. Do not force the M3 screws.
Figure 4.72 shows the components needed to complete this part of the tutorial.
Place the M2.5 spacers on the bottom side of the Raspberry Pi, as in Figure 4.74.
Place the Raspberry Pi under the top plate, positioned according to Figure 4.76. Fasten it using the M2.5x10 nylon screws.
Modified 2018-09-13 by tanij
From the previously prepared pieces take the following components:
From the Duckiebot kit take the following components:
Figure 4.78 shows the components needed to complete this part of the tutorial.
Pass the camera cable through the top plate as in the picture, pay attention to the connector orientation, it must be the same as in Figure 4.80.
Pass the camera cable through the camera mount (Figure 4.82).
Pull the black wings of the camera port on the camera and plug in the camera cable. Pay attention that the pins on the camera cable match the pins on the camera. Close the connector by pushing the black wings making sure it “clicks”. (Figure 4.84).
Please be aware that different camera cables have the text on different sides and with different orientation, do not use it as a landmark.
Place the camera on the camera mount, and insert the M2x10 screws from the front to the back, as in Figure 4.86.
Secure the camera from the back using the M2 nuts. (Figure 4.88).
TODO: replace figure – nuts should be nylon, not metal.
The following was marked as "todo".
TODO: replace figure – nuts should be nylon, not metal.
File book/opmanual_duckiebot/atoms_17_operation_manual_duckiebot/1_0_17_assembling_duckiebot_DB18.md.
File book/opmanual_duckiebot/atoms_17_operation_manual_duckiebot/1_0_17_assembling_duckiebot_DB18.md
in repo duckietown/docs-opmanual_duckiebot branch master commit 3f931d72
last modified by tanij on 2018-11-07 18:13:58
create_notes_from_elements
in module mcdp_docs.task_markers
.Modified 2018-09-13 by tanij
From the previously prepared pieces take the following components:
From the Duckiebot kit take the following components:
Figure 4.90 shows the components needed to complete this part of the tutorial.
Place the top chassis assembly over the bottom chassis assembly as in Figure 4.92.
The following is a tricky step. We suggest to align your chackras and read the procedure through before starting.
For each motor, the cable that is soldered closer to the floor (bottom), goes on the internal connection. The cable soldered on the motor on the plate side goes on the external connection.
Insert the right-motor cable on the right side of the Hut connector (Figure 4.94 perspective), and the left-motor cable on the left side of the Hut connector.
For reference, look at the example in Figure 4.96, where the left motor (driving perspective) has the red wire soldered on the bottom, so it goes on the internal left connector. Similarly, the right motor (driving perspective) has the black wire soldered on the bottom, so it goes on the internal right connector.
You might find it easier to temporarily remove the USB cables while executing this passage. Make sure that you plug them back in before moving to the next one though.
Now flip the chassis top plate assembly, it should look like in Figure 4.98.
Place the second rear bumper bracer on top of the chassis spacers in the back of the chassis, again the holes should align (Figure 4.100). If you experience a slight misalignment, carefully pass an M3 screw through the top plate and the top bumper bracer first, then move the standoff until you can plug the screw in.
Fasten the top plate using the M3x10 screws, as in(Figure 4.102.
Modified 2018-09-14 by tanij
You can use a zip tie to help with cable management (Figure 4.104). Tip: you can use one zipties to keep the camera cable down and the USB cables below from touching the wheels.
Modified 2018-11-07 by tanij
From the Duckiebot kit take the following components:
In the picture, nylon screws are used. However you probably used them to assemble the omniwheel, then use the metal screws.
Figure 4.106 shows the components needed to complete this upgrade.
You could have a back plate of a different color with respect to the picture, e.g., black or white. They are all functionally equivalent.
Mount the spacers using the metal screws, as in Figure 4.108.
In the picture, Nylon screws are used. Most likely you used them to fix the omnidirectional wheel to the bottom chassis. You can use metal screws instead.
pay attention that the spacers should be in the same direction as the LEDs.
Take the back plate and place the countersunk screws on the side where the holes are tapered, as shown in Figure 4.110.
Fasten the back plate to the back bumper standoffs, like shown in the picture. The back plate is not symmetric, place it such that it is centered with respect to the back bumper. Then apply the circle pattern sticker to the back plate (Figure 4.112).
Modified 2018-09-13 by tanij
From the previously prepared pieces take the following components:
From the Duckiebot kit take the following components:
Figure 4.114 shows the components needed to complete this upgrade.
It is cleaner if you do not separate each cable, but leave them in two sets of three.
Place the front bumper in front of the chassis. Then locate the pins on the front bumper, you should have taken note of the connection you have done on the Duckietown Hut (Figure 4.116).
Pay attention to place the front bumper oriented as in the picture.
You can pass the jumper cables through the top chassis for cable management purposes. No matter what exact solution you choose to, the objective is to avoid any cable from touching the wheels (Figure 4.118).
The ziptie can be in a different position than shown in the picture.
Now we need to connect the two set of wires to the front bumper. The set of cables coming from the Raspberry Pi must be connected on the right (Figure 4.120 perspective, namely the green blue and yellow wires in the picture), while the connector on the left (red white and black wires in the picture) will go to the back bumper. Again take note of which color you used for which pin in the left connector.
Place the cabled front bumper in front of the chassis, with your fingers slightly lift the top plate and insert the front bumper. It is a form fit, the connector on the lower part must go in the circular hole (see Figure 4.122), while the two top connectors will lock in just behind the camera mount (refer to Figure 4.124). You might need to apply some pressure once found the correct alignment for the components to “lock in”.
Insert and fasten the screws trough the top plate in the front chassis spacers.
Modified 2018-09-14 by tanij
From the previously prepared assemblies, and from the Duckiebox, take the following components:
Figure 4.126 shows the components needed to complete this upgrade.
Place the back bumper as shown in Figure 4.128, then connect the wires to the back bumper according to the connection done in the front bumper.
The back bumper is press fit to the bumper bracers, place it as in Figure 4.130. You will have to apply little pressure, and it should fit tightly.
If you cannot get the bumper to fit, check if the bumper bracer has plastic protective films on both sides. In case, remove one - try again - and in case remove the other one too.
If you experience a loose fit instead, you can use two M3 screws and nuts to secure the back bumper.
Figure 4.134 shows how the current assembly should look like at this point.
Modified 2018-09-13 by tanij
From the previously prepared pieces take the following components:
From the Duckiebot kit take the following components:
Figure 4.136 shows the components needed to complete this tutorial.
Modified 2018-11-07 by tanij
Before plugging in the battery, make sure the Hut’s GPIO pins (a) are not touching each other, (b) are not touching metal screws (in case you did not follow these instructions exactly) and (c) are free from any external object that might have gotten stuck there during the assembly process.
If the GPIOs of the Hut get shorted (there is an electrically conductive connection between them) when you plug in the battery, you might damage the Raspberry Pi beyond repair.
Modified 2018-11-07 by tanij
Place the battery and fix it using a zip tie, then connect the USB cables, as in Figure 4.138.
Do not unplug/replug the bumper wires when the power is on. You could break the bumpers!
Place the Duckie on top of your brand new Duckiebot.
Be careful not to hurt the Duckie.
Figure 4.140 and Figure 4.142 show how the final assembly should look like. Congratulations!
TODO: update Figure 4.142 to include new double-face USB cables.
File book/opmanual_duckiebot/atoms_17_operation_manual_duckiebot/1_0_17_assembling_duckiebot_DB18.md.
File book/opmanual_duckiebot/atoms_17_operation_manual_duckiebot/1_0_17_assembling_duckiebot_DB18.md
in repo duckietown/docs-opmanual_duckiebot branch master commit 3f931d72
last modified by tanij on 2018-11-07 18:13:58
create_notes_from_elements
in module mcdp_docs.task_markers
.as a final check, verify that no cable is touching the wheels. You can use the provided zip ties to ensure that cables stay out of the way.
Modified 2018-09-14 by tanij
I found it hard to mount the omni-directional wheel / the back bumper / the Raspberry Pi because the holes weren’t lining up.
Sometimes in life you have to push a little to make things happen. (But don’t push too much or things will break!)
My battery is different from the one shown in the pictures! Did I get the wrong box?
If there is a duckie in or on your box, you most probably got the right one. We support different battery models. All supported models are functionally equivalent, although the form factor varies.
No questions found. You can ask a question on the website.